Posts Tagged ‘tutorial’

Let’s talk capes. No, not the Renaissance fair kind, but the stylish every day kind. Capes are just one of those things you either find really attractive/elegant or silly. I’m of the former group. I find them simple and beautiful (when done right). I’m going to walk you through a tutorial for making a really easy cape out of flannel. But before I do I want you to know, you can simplify this way down if you are looking for a fast project. You don’t need the pockets or collar if you don’t want them. I tend to go crazy if I don’t have pockets, so I had to add them. You also don’t need to line it. I wanted something that would be useful in DC’s weather, so I opted for a warm liner so I could get some use out of it.

Materials:

1.75 yards flannel

1.75 yards liner (I choose thick velvet-ish fabric)

Buttons

Some scrap vinyl

Tassels

1. Fold fabric in half, then half again

2. Cut circle with 29” radius

3. Cut circle with a 3” radius out of the middle for the neck hole

4. Open up the circle, cut a straight line, opening up the cape

5. Now we are going to make the pleats where the pockets go. If you don’t want pockets (or pleats, skip to step 11)

-Measure 20” in at the bottom edge, mark

-Measure 3” past the first mark, mark this spot

-Tuck the 3” portion back on the underside so it points towards the opening

-Pin pleat along edge

6. Now we are going to cut the pleat open on the back side, about 13” in length. Roll this edge back once and stitch to finish.

8. Using the scraps from around your larger circle, cut the pockets by tracing your hand.

9. Sew each pocket right in to your pleats. You’ll sew along the top edge of each side first, and then sew the pocket itself together.

10. Top stitch the pleat as follows:

11. Lay out your cape, cut a copy out of the lining fabric.

12. Using the rest of the scraps from your big circle, cut a collar. I just used as much as I could, I didn’t measure or anything.  Sew pieces together, leaving bottom arc open. Then turn right-side-out, press and top stitch

13. Sew collar to right side of cape (1/4” seam). Then sew lining to the cap (1/2”), leaving an opening on the front straight part so you can turn it right side out.

14. Turn cape, press, finish opening. Now you can top stitch.

15. Now mark and add buttons to the front. I chose to have the buttons face inward so you wouldn’t see them

16. Put on the cap, mark where you want you “arm” to be defined. Stitch multiple times here, about ½” up.

17. Add tassels.

Done!!

So my Dita Von Teese inspired wrap dress was such a success for the summer, I’ve decided to go a winter version. This is a traditional style wrap dress, it actually ties closed, unlike the other one which was a faux wrap. I honestly have no idea how long this took because I worked on it in like 15 or 30 minutes chunks when I had the time.

To start out I found this amazing knit at G Street for $3/yard. With my Living Social deal my purchase was ½ off ($25 for $50), so it was basically $1.50/yard. It’s a panel- print knit called “Bunny” and it has a pretty good weight to it; almost like a light sweater. I needed 3.5 yards because of the panel. So I made this dress for $5.25 + a closure. Pretty darn good.

****Before I go on I want to make a note: Even though we are working with a knit, I don’t recommend using elastic thread. It will bunch/ruffle the fabric and we want smooth seams. So instead use a small zig-zag. *****Oh and all seams are 0.5”*****

Here are the measurements you’ll need:

1. Cut two (opposite of each other) as follows:

2. For the upper back, cut 1:

3. For the skirt panels, cut 3:

4. The ties: cut 4

5. Sew ties together, turn right-side out, top stitch. Now you’ll have to strips

6. Assemble the panels, attach the skirt to the top, pleating in the excess in the skirt.

7. Sew Front panels to back panel at shoulder.

8. Trace arm hole, add seam allowance. Cut two as follows:

9. Sew front right panel to back panel along side seam.

10. Pin one tie strap in place on back panel at left side seam. Then sew together back panel, tie strap and front left panel along seam.

11.  Pin sleeve to dress, sew

12. Finish the neckline/side seams by rolling the edge

13. Hem the bottom

14. Attach the second tie strap to the outer edge of the right front panel

15. Attach hooks on the outer left panel and on the side seam which attaches the right front panel to the back panel. This is so when you put the dress on the left panel will stay secured with the hooks and the right panel is tied in place.

And that’s it!

My sister Angela (of the hanging herb garden post as well as the bib necklace) lives in Raleigh, North Carolina, so I don’t get to see her super often. On a recent trip up, we decided to make the most of our time by having a sewing day. So Angela, my mom and I had a fun filled day of making jersey skirts (and one dress!). I made one of these prior to our craft day and it has quickly become a staple in my summer wardrobe. This is THE skirt for summer (well, casual skirt). It’s so comfy, relaxed and cute…it goes with everything!

You’ll need about a yard of fabric per skirt (varies based on desired skirt length). I like the heavier jersey, not the slinky kind for these skirts. Everything is with ½” seam allowance unless otherwise specified.

1. Take your waist measurement and subtract 5”. This is you waist band length.

2. Cut a rectangle 14”x waist band length. You want the stretch to be along the waist band length side

3. With right sides together, stitch along the 14” long side of the waist band

4. Fold top edge down to the bottom edge so you’ll have a tube with the seam from step 3 on the inside. You tube should now be 7” tall

5. For this step, I used the whole width of the fabric (about 58-60” depending on the fabric). Figure out the length you want your skirt, add 1.5” seam allowance, then cut fabric. Trim off the selvage.

6. With right sides together, sew your skirt piece together along the length

7. Using a needle and thread, ruffle the top edge of your skirt. Do this until you reduce the length down to your waist band measurement minute 1” (to account for seam allowance taken)

8. Pin ruffled edge to raw edge (technically both raw edges since they are aligned) of waist band. Sew

9. Hem bottom at 1”

All done!

When wearing, fold your waist band over (like yoga pants) so it will be about 3″. This helps the skirt fit, and looks way better than a 7″ waist band

Making the dress version is super simple. You’ll need about 1.5” yards for a full length dress (for a 5’5” girl)

1. Take your rib cage measurement, subtract 5. This is your tube top band length

2. Cut rectangle to 14” x tube top band length.

3. Cut a rectangle 14”x waist band length. You want the stretch to be along the tube top band length side

4. With right sides together, stitch along the 14” long side of the tube top band

5. Fold top edge down to the bottom edge so you’ll have a tube with the seam from step 3 on the inside. You tube should now be 7” tall

6. Measure around your chest where the upper edge of your dress will rest. Subtract 2. Cut a piece of elastic to this length; sew ends together so you have a loop.

7. Work this into your tube top (from steps 5) in between the layers, so that the upper edge of the elastic is against the crease. Pin in place (on outside). Stitch the tube top layers together just below the elastic, creating a casing. Don’t sew over the elastic because that will make it not stretch.

8. For this step, I used the whole width of the fabric (about 58-60” depending on the fabric). Figure out the length you want, add 1.5” seam allowance, then cut fabric. Trim off the selvage.

9. With right sides together, sew your skirt piece together along the length

10. Using a needle and thread, ruffle the top edge of your skirt. Do this until you reduce the length down to your waist band measurement minute 1” (to account for seam allowance taken)

11. Pin ruffled edge to raw edge (technically both raw edges since they are aligned) of waist band. Sew

12. Hem bottom at 1”

So let’s talk tube tops. They are a great summer option….for most people. I feel like I’m constantly having to adjust and the top has to be so tight to stay up it’s not really an “easy” look for me. But a couple years back I bought 2 from the discount bin at Express, I believe they were less than $5 each. I only really ever worn them under other items. And on top of that, they have become a little to tight for me now. So they were in the back of my closet collecting dust. I decided this was a prefect opportunity for a re-fashion tutorial. I used 1 black tube top and about 3/4 yard of fabric.

1. If you tube top has the built in bra, cut it out. Since the top was a little tight on me, we are going to use the bottom hem as the new top

2. Measure from where the top seam will be to where your waist it. Add 0.5″ seam allowance and cut here.

3. For your skirt, you can totally measure the length you want and cut it to fit and all that, but I went for the much faster option: Cut your contrast fabric in half along the length. So now you have 2 pieces 3/4 of a yard long.

4. Sew your two lengths of contrast fabric together, so now you have a loop

5. Sew your tube top portion to the skirt. I used a two-pronged approach for this. I used both elastic thread and I stretched the tube top as I sewed. This worked in all the excess fabric of the skirt so the final outcome would be gathered.

6. Hem to desired length.

7. Using the portion of tube top you cut off in step 2 (and the parts from the built in bra if it’s matching) and cut 0.75″ strips. Use these strips to make your straps how ever you want.

8. I did a little gather in the center of the bodice to give it a better shape. I simply gather the first 4″ down to 2″.

And that’s it. If it wasn’t for my complicated straps this would have been the fastest dress ever!

PS…do you see those shoes?! So hot right? They are Nine West and I got them for $8.40 at Syms!!!!